And a seagull wished me good luck, in the traditional manner.

Today I took the bus to Finisterre, to be sure of keeping my appointment for breakfast. It was great to meet up with so many Camino friends, who had arived there over the previous day or two. Most were returning home today, some are going on to Muxa (the final, final point on the Camino). After breakfast with Domingo and Karin (a Camino romance) I was given a brief conducted tour of this seaside town, before they took the bus back to Santiago and the airport.

I then made the 3k walk to the lighthouse at the true "Landīs End". After seeing marker stones over the last few weeks counting down from, in effect, 850 kilometres, it was a pretty major thing to get to marker 0.0.0 and I had my photo taken to prove that I did it. And I took pictures of the various places on the headland where people have made small pyres of their possesions, to signify ... something. Thereīs also a small and touching memorial in the form of a broken pilgrim boot.

I got the bus back to Cee ("is this the bus to Cee?" I asked the driver. "Si, Cee" he replied, in a small Spanish joke. Tomorrow, come hell or high water I will complete my camino by walking to Finisterre.

I couldnīt help but notice, as I returned from the headland, that on this return journey one sees the pristine reverse side of the marker stone, with no distance plate on it. So perhaps this isnīt the end of the earth after all, it is the begining. As always, it depends how you look at things.